The Best Men’s Belt

Buying Guide

For almost as long as we’ve had pants, the humble belt has been a reliable workhorse. At a basic level, it has but one job: To keep those pants up. But any rope can do that, and you wouldn’t want to wear one to a date. Among other things, picking the right belt requires thinking about your outfit, where you’re going to wear it, and how much time you have to put it on.

Start with the occasion. The look and size of a formal belt are going to be noticeably different from those of the one you wear on the weekends. For starters, dress belts tend to be thinner. Belts in general don’t vary much in width, and most are anywhere from one to one-and-a-half inches. But that extra half inch will definitely stand out on a tailored suit, and not in a good way. The best dress belts have a polished look to them, so high-grade leather is a good bet. You’ll want the buckle to be smaller, and for bonus style points make sure that it matches the general color of your watch or cufflinks. Likewise, you should try to have the strap color match your shoes.

For casual or work belts, you can focus more on comfort and versatility. Any material or configuration is OK, as long as it fits your usual style. Want to wear that giant metal cowboy buckle? Have fun, as long as you’re not doing it to a job interview.

Now let’s talk about the material on the strap. Belts can be made out of just about any fabric or animal hide known to man, and you can certainly find “statement” belts out there made from alligator hide or snakeskin. If you can afford it though, quality leather remains a good choice that suits all styles. It holds up well against both harsh weather and sustained stretching, and it has a very distinctive look. Mind you, not all leather belts perform equally well. Full grain or top grain leather can last for many years. Belts advertised as “genuine leather” might sound fancy, but the designation actually refers to an inferior grade of hide.

Suede is another reliable material that can be both dressy and laid-back. Belts made of canvas or webbing can last a long time, but they’re best suited for casual outfits. Vinyl can be made to look very fancy or deliberately loud, but it’s usually not the most durable choice.

Finally, let’s focus on the buckle. For many years, most belt buckles had the same basic configuration: A plate or D-shaped frame with a prong that fit through one of the holes in the belt. That style is still the most popular one today, and usually is the most affordable (unless we’re talking about those Texas-sized novelty buckles). If you want your belt to last, make sure that the holes are nice and thick and the stitching is secure. Even quality leather can get stretched out around the belt holes with sustained use.

If you want a cleaner look, box frame or ratchet-style belt buckles are becoming increasingly popular. With these fasteners, there’s no need for any holes at all. The buckle simply clamps down on the strap, squeezing it between the two sides of the frame. With ratchet belts, you can sometimes even adjust the tightness on the fly with a couple of pulls. This style of buckle tends to work best with suede or canvas straps that won’t get worn down by the pulling, but well-made leather can also hold up well.

As we all know, belts are adjustable — but you’re still going to have to find the right size. Luckily, belt makers have made it pretty easy. Sizes are almost universally listed in inches, so you can compare it to your usual waist size. As a good rule of thumb, you want to give yourself a little wiggle room. Go for a belt that’s a couple inches longer than your pants size, but not much more.